The 1980s were all about excess. The mantra was more was more, and that went double for fashion. Power suits with power shoulder pads, garish fluorescent florals, and skinny black leather ties, all enjoyed their time on the sun.
As they say, all good things must come to an end. The 1980s didn’t so much as gracefully pass the baton on to 1990, as more imploded in on itself. Financial markets around the world spectacularly crashed in domino-effect, leaving everyone more than a little shaken.
As the world adjusted to the 90s, one thing was clear, gone were the days of cinched waists and popped collars. It was a new era in fashion, where oversized t-shirts, baggy pants and chunky runners came in every available shade of blue, black and denim – this was the birth of Streetwear on mass-scale.
GRAFFITI JUMPED FROM WALLS AND INTO ADS
Streetwear grew out of a blend of skateboarding, surfing and punk subcultures. Each of these fringe groups had their favourite brands, so when Streetwear popped out from subterranean level to a global scale, these labels went with it.
A UNIFORM OF DOC MARTENS
Brands like Stussy, Massimo, Rip Curl, Von Dutch, Doc Martens, Kangol, No Fear, Vans and Guess Jeans all rose to fame with their graffiti-style logos, double denim options, and bucket hats.
It was such a brand-definitive time in fashion, that when the world shifted its gaze to the next fashion trend, not all of these titans could pivot in time to keep up.
BACK IN THE DAY WITH LL COOL J
Some of them scaled back, and went back to their subcultures, staying true to their ethos and look. Some stayed in mainstream, but in brand name only, changing their style with the seasons. And a handful got lost in lawsuits and awful licensing deals.
It wasn’t all for nothing though. Fashion is cyclical and here we are again, watching Streetwear make its way back to the mainstream.
New Stussy, Vans and Doc Martens stores are opening around the world. And luxury brands are jumping onto the trend with brands like Gucci doing collabs with The North Face, Xbox and Adidas.
SAME MADONNA, SAME DRESS
The original Streetwear movement has had a glow-up in a couple of areas since it was last a big thing. The 1990s utilitarian look has evolved into ‘Normcore’, less baggy, more tailored. The fast fashion production has made way for eco-minded fabric selections and manufacturing. Baggy jeans and over-sized shorts have merged, and now we’re calling them 'Jorts'.
As we watch these custodian brands gain traction in the market, we’re seeing a proliferation of new Streetwear stores opening.
Channelling the spirit of 1990s minimalism, the stores are embracing a no-frills, no-fuss aesthetic. Colour palettes are muted and monochromatic tones run from ceiling to floor. The fixtures look lightweight in construction, and basic in installation. Overall, there’s little-to-no branding throughout.
STUSSY - TORONTO, CANADA
Against the gleam of high-end luxury, and the chorus of endless celebrity collaborations, Streetwear 2.0 has found a rightful spot itself back into the mainstream.